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¡á About the Publication
Magazine B is an ad-free monthly publication that dedicates each issue to one well-balanced brand unearthed from around the globe. The magazine introduces the brand¡¯s hidden stories, as well as its sensibility and culture, and is an easy but also serious read for anyone with an interest in brands.
¡á About the Issue
Welcome to the 96th issue of B.
Back in 2018, when B revisited Seoul, the capital city of Korea, to put out a second edition, we talked about what city would be the best for the city issue besides Seoul. Many of our editors—including me—thought of Busan, the second largest city in Korea, and Jejudo Island for its breathtaking natural landscapes. Five years later, we wound up doing an issue that features Busan. Of course, we were drawn to Jejudo Island because it embodies the idea of rest and relaxation, but truthfully, we were more curious about Busan¡¯s many faces beyond the beaches and tourism. I myself visit the coastal city every year and always feel like moving there whenever I go, so it is obvious that the port city 400 km south of Seoul has some kind of magnetic allure.
Each time I arrive at Busan Station and taxi to Haeundae to get settled in—I¡¯ve done this so many times I don¡¯t dare to even try to count—I find myself mesmerized by the landscape of the piers as I look out the car window. Not until rows of shipping containersand towering cranes catch my eyes do I feel like, ¡®Ah! Finally, I¡¯m in Busan.¡¯ It feels like passing through immigration. Maybe because of the unique layout of port cities, I have always assumed that Busan was bigger than Seoul. Maybe it is the impression that you can only get from the second- or the third-largest cities. Apparently, it is the norm that the nation¡¯s largest city—the capital city in an administrative and economic sense—naturally chases ideas like ¡°global standards¡± and ¡°cosmopolitanism.¡± Despite the never-ending changes inarchitecture, culture, and commercial districts that seem to pop up overnight, capital cities always feel rather mediocre when all things are said and done. That might explain why I have recently heard globe-trotters grumbling that there is nothing special out there. Everything is already in Seoul.
But Busan has staved off this rather imminent phenomenon of standardization. Of course, the city boasts a good number of flagship stores by globalbrands, inventive and fancy restaurants, and uniform- like styles that hipsters wear, but these elements
do not shape the visitor¡¯s impression of the city. Rather, Busan¡¯s cultural elements—embedded in the clothing, food, and architecture—forge a distinctive locality in its raw state, emerging through the cracks between the well-developed infrastructure that is essential for a big city to survive. The essence of Busan that B captured for this issue also centers on the people, the products, and the companies that add contemporary twists to local tradition. From Momos Coffee¡¯s Jooyeon Jeon, who triumphantly sprang up from the local specialty coffee scene and on to the global stage; and Balansa, a fashion brand whose contemporary chicness is no less superb than Seoul- born rivals; to Gentz Bakery, which strives to retaina sense of ¡°Koreanness.¡± All these players generated cultlike followings locally and received offers to expand to Seoul. (Usually, it happens the other way around.) In a city where not even one of Korea¡¯s top 100 companies has its headquarters, it is a feat thatlocally grown creativity translates to business acumen, resulting in phenomenal success.
The potential of Busan, I opine, lies with innovative small business owners, though they are wildly outnumbered by their counterparts in Seoul. Indeed, the Busanites B met say that the city¡¯s potential isin the hands of the people who grew up in Busan,far from Seoul and close to the door to the outside world. Busan has constantly grappled with internal and external forces due to its geographical position and historical events, like outsiders coming and going, refugees from the Korean War rushing in. Even still, it seems that Busan has the most fertile soil to cultivate new contemporary ideas. This may be why I as a land dweller, born and raised in Seoul, always envy people who live near water—and where they come together, in Busan.
Eunsung Park
Editor in Chief
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02 INTRO
08 EDITOR'S LETTER
12BUSAN FOLKS
Four Busanites talk about their precious memories and the port city¡¯s vibrant energy
18INTERVIEW
Jiman Park, CEO of Sammi Construction Co, Ltd. AndKitchenborie Co, Ltd. maximizes the aesthetic value of space through low-rise, horizontal landmarks
24HOMEGROWN TALENT
Key leaders in Busan¡¯s confectionary/ baking, coffee, eomuk fish cake, and beer industries who all share the spirit of friendly competition and are always open to new information and possibilities
42HISTORU OF LOCAL CUISINE
Old stores and local foods from the times of the Korean War and subsequent division of the peninsula
50INTERVIEW
Jeehoon Kim, owner of Balansa, says that the growth of Busan¡¯s street culture can be attributed to outside cultures andenthusiastic people who fully explore their fields of interest
56NEIGHBORHOOD
Four representative neighborhoods in Busan, which are home to an intriguing mix of the analog era and contemporary twists
72AROUND TOWN
Busan¡¯s appeal and different impressions of the port city from young people
80LEGEND MAKERS
Producers of steel, towels, and footwear that have served as the basis for Busan¡¯s manufacturing industry
96URBAN GETAWAYS
What to do in Busan, home to beautiful mountains, breathtaking beaches, and urban infrastructure
102STAYCATION
Four fancy Busan-based hotels offer exciting experiences and amenities based on the maritime city¡¯s abundant natural surroundings as well as rich historical and cultural elements
110BORN AND RAISED
BohyunAhn, an actor and television personality, and Winter, a member of the Korean girl group aespa, gush about their hometown
113THE WORLD EXPO IS COMING TO BUSAN, KOREA
World Expo 2030 Busan, a solutions-based platform that aims to tackle anarray of global issues, shapes the future of cities with tools for soft power
145GREETINGS FROM BUSAN
Made-in-Busan products that feature the active and lively spirit of Busan
156INTERVIEW
Haeju Kim, a senior curator at the Singapore Art Museum, says that multidimensional effort is needed to work is important to properly appreciate the multifaceted landscape of Busan, which is a combination of land waves created by geographical patterns and ocean waves
162ARTISTIC CITY
Art galleries, museums, and fairs that have enhanced the level of artistic and cultural sensibility of Busan
180YOUNG WAVE
Young artists who call Busan home are working to lay the foundation for their own unique, creative world
190INTERVIEW
Founder and CEO of Krypton Kyungjun Yang says that Busan is the optimal city for local startups, an emerging alternative to boost local economies, to digest outside cultures in their own ways
196THE AWAKENING GROUND
¡°New local¡± projects that rewrite the stories and values of the city while preserving the traces of the past
214CITY STORY
218FROM SEOUL TO BUSAN
Seoul-born fashion and beauty brands that incorporated Busan¡¯s locality into the design of their Busan-based outlets for a singular brand experience
222DIGEST
A look at Busan through numbers
233OUTRO
¡á Table of contents
12GAME CHANGER
Media reactions at the time of Spotify¡¯s creation
16CRITICS
Changes in the music-listening environment as well as future music market prospects as told by three experts
20OPINION: GREG OGAN
Greg Ogan, associate professor at the Berklee College of Music and lead for diverse music projects, talks about the positive changes Spotify brought to the music industry
26VIBRANT OFFICE
Spotify¡¯s office environment as seen in its office in Stockholm, Sweden—the birthplace of the platform
32SPOTIFIERS
What 12 employees think of Spotify¡¯s fun and exciting in-house culture and atmosphere
36ESSENTIALS
Key features and services that show Spotify¡¯s core competencies as a music platform
42ADVANCEMENT
Innovative achievements of Spotify, which has quickly identified problems and come up with the best solutions
48CUSTOMIZATION
First impressions of Spotify¡¯s personalized recommendation services from after these new users used Spotify for two weeks
54THE FOUNDER: DANIEL EK
Spotify¡¯s DNA and vision are laid out in this interview with Spotify founder and CEO Daniel Ek
60BRAND STORY
The growth story of Spotify, which has become a vehicle through which users can truly discover and explore new music
66THROWBACK
Behind-the-scenes stories about Spotify¡¯s four early members who dreamed of democratizing music
70INTERVIEW
Spotify¡¯s key strategies and culture explained by Alex Norström (co-president and chief business officer), Katarina Berg (chief human resources officer), and Gustav Gyllenhammar (VP of the markets and subscriber growth team)
76NOTES
Music experts observe changes and phenomena on the Spotify platform
80MUSIC IS EVERYWHERE
Stories of four artists who use Spotify to experience music, communicate with fans, and conduct musical experiments
98 PLAYGROUND
Introducing Stream On, an in-person event that is a manifestation of Spotify¡¯s vision to become the optimal platform of choice for audio content creators
104AUDIO GENERATION
Spotify¡¯s practical measures that have helped establish the company as a comprehensive music platform as well as its signature podcasts and video programs
112OPINION: PUJA PATEL
Puja Patel, editor-in-chief of online music zine Pitchfork, talks about where the music industry should be headed
118MUSIC VOYAGERS
Meet Spotify users who have explored their own musical worlds with creative energy
126IN SPACE
Various spaces that use Spotify playlists to create unique identities
134IMPACT
Spotify¡¯s collaborations that cover all parts of life and its music programsthat are meant to increase and promote diversity
140DIGEST
Meaningful figures and info that show the brand¡¯s influence
143OUTRO
12COUNTRY DWELLER
The bucolic lives of Barbour consumers who live at their own pace
22OPINION: VIRGINIA CHADWYCK- HEALEY
Stories of balanced fashion consumption told by Virginia Chadwyck-Healey, owner of VCH Style and stylist for Catherine, Princess of Wales
28WAY OF BARBOUR
Barbour¡¯s clothing, accessory, and shoe lines are efficiently planned and designed for contemporary life
38DIAGRAM
Analysis of Barbour¡¯s signature waxed jackets, which were created from a clear vision
46IN MY POCKET
What is in the pockets of the owners of Barbour waxed jackets
54BORN IN SOUTH SHIELDS
Barbour factory in the port city of South Shields—the brand¡¯s home ground and starting point
64FROM THE ARCHIVE
Originality as seen through the prototypes of the Barbour jacket archive
76OPINION: DAME MARGARET BARBOUR
Barbour¡¯s DNA and heritage told by Dame Margaret Barbour, the current chair
82ROOTED IN SCOTLAND
Halley Stevensons, producer of waxed cotton for Barbour, and Kinloch Anderson, designer of Barbour¡¯s own tartans
92RETAILS
Barbour styles told by Barbour design directors of men¡¯s and women¡¯s clothing as well as Barbour stores in the old neighbor-like areas of London, South Shields, and Edinburgh
100HAND TO HAND
Maintenance tips for Barbour jackets and Barbour Re-waxing & Re-loved services, which enable the jackets to be handed down over generations
106OPINION: JACK CARLSON
Jack Carlson, founder of Rowing Blazers, explains how to expand a brand¡¯s worldview through imaginative, out-of- the-box thinking
112CROSSOVER
Barbour shows its many sides through continuous collaborations with unique fashion brands
122FUNCTIONALIST
Practical fashion items from other brands that Barbour fans love
128 MY OWN BARBOUR
Barbour jackets as personal memory archives
136BRAND STORY
The growth of Barbour, a family business that has respected its heritage while nimbly responding to the trend of the times
142OLD CATALOGS
Barbour¡¯s old catalogs show the zeitgeist, culture, and various lifestyles of the past
146INTERVIEW
Barbour¡¯s key growth strategy and future plan as told by Managing Director Steve Buck, Global Marketing and Commercial Director Paul Wilkinson, and Vice Chair Helen Barbour
152SPOTLIGHT
Barbour products on celebrities and in the media
156FELLOWS
Brands that share keywords with Barbour like ¡°Royal Warrant,¡± ¡°waxed jacket,¡± and ¡°workwear and outdoor wear¡±
159OUTRO
12KEYWORDS
The Balvenie¡¯s philosophy as portrayed in media coverage
16SPEYSIDE
The region that The Balvenie calls home
22THE BALVENIE DISTILLERY
The epicenter where the Scottish whisky brand¡¯s nearly 130-year history began
26FROM CRAFT TO BALVENIE
The Balvenie¡¯s craftspeople who are committed to the brand¡¯s legacy of crafting top-quality whisky
48INTERVIEW: DAVID C. STEWART & KELSEY MCKECHNIE
The Balvenie malt masters, who are responsible for quality and taste control
54CHARACTERISTICS
The Balvenie¡¯s whisky lineup that expresses a storied experience and immense know-how along with a singular design language
62OPINION: STEPH MURRAY
Steph Murry, general manager at The Dowans Hotel, talks about the local whisky community in Speyside
68SPEYSIDE¡¯S MANNER
Bar culture in Speyside, the birthplace of single malts
76COEXIST IN MARKET
Diversity in the Scotch whisky market that spawns from micro-distinction during whisky making
84BAR SPIRITS
Bar scenes in Seoul, Saitama, London, and New York that present whisky cocktails in their own distinctive ways
96MANUALS
The basics of whisky
100 OPINION: HAEIN JUNG
Korean actor Haein Jung talks about charms of whisky and The Balvenie
106MY TASTE PAIRING
Whisky parings that reflect the taste of the drinker—from scents to artworks
116JUST MY SPIRIT
Diverse manifestations of whisky subcultures, such as collecting, sharing, and blending
120THE ELEMENTS
The five basic factors for whisky making
130BRAND STORY
The growth story of The Balvenie, which has pioneered in the market with its traditional batch production process and experimental spirit
136INTERVIEW: ALICE MCSHERRY, GEMMA PORTER
The Balvenie¡¯s global marketing manager Alice Mcsherry and global brand ambassador Gemma Porter talk about the brand¡¯s internal and external culture
140SHIFT IN GENERATIONS
Three next-generation employees expected to make history for The Balvenie
144ART OF CRAFT
The Balvenie¡¯s art projects that distill the brand¡¯s artisanal spirit
148DIGEST
Figures that demonstrate the prominence of The Balvenie and its parent company William Grant & Sons in the Scotch whisky industry
151OUTRO
12FOURTH WAVE
The new wave of coffee and % Arabica observed by coffee experts
16AESTHETIC
Aesthetic of Kyoto that inspired % Arabica founder Kenneth Shoji
22NEIGHBORHOOD
Introduction to Arashiyama and Higashiyama neighborhoods in Kyoto where % Arabica locations have become local attractions
28OPINION: KOBE LEE
% Arabica¡¯s Global Head Barista Kobe Lee talks about thebrand¡¯s philosophy on coffee and people management
34IDENTITY
% Arabica¡¯s minimal, timeless brand identity that is reflected in brand goods
40IN THE BAR
% Arabica¡¯s signature drinks and service
46AT THE ROASTERY
% Arabica Kyoto Roastery & Bakery, a control tower for an exquisite, quality cup of coffee
50INTERVIEW: KENNETH SHOJI
Conversation between Magazine B publisher Suyong Joh and % Arabica founder Kenneth Shoji
56A DAY WITH A COSMOPOLITE
Kenneth Shoji¡¯s cosmopolitan life in Bali
64CUPPING LAB
Luis Urcuyo, green bean buyer for% Arabica, shows his coffee cupping
68COFFEE FARMS IN BALI
Coffee farms in Batukaang Village, Bali, that supply specialty coffee beans to % Arabica
72WELLNESS SPACES IN BALI
Alchemy, a wellness brand in Bali that captured Kenneth Shoji¡¯s attention
76COFFEE TOOLS
Coffee tools used in % Arabica cafés to provide the best coffee experience
86MOMENT OF INNOVATION
Slayer Espresso, a game changer in the espresso machinemarket, and its founder Jason Prefontaine
94COFFEE BUFFERS
Coffee lovers from all walks of life, including cofounder of Deus ex Machina Dare Jennings, share their thoughts on % Arabica
102OPINION: KEITA AONO
Keita Aono, chief designer of space design consultancy No. 10, talks about % Arabica¡¯s space design philosophy
108ICONIC STORES
Design studios from different cultures and their iconic designs for % Arabica cafés
124SURROUNDINGS
Neighborhoods and nearby attractions in Seoul, New York, and London where% Arabica shops are located
130PARTNERS
% Arabica¡¯s franchise partners in Indonesia, China, and Korea that drive the brand¡¯s global business
136VISITORS
People from all around the world who visit % Arabica stores in Kyoto and Bali
142BRAND STORY
A story of % Arabica that started in Kyoto and has grown into a global coffee brand
148BEHIND THE BRAND
Some interesting facts about % Arabica, as presented by the brand¡¯s founder
150INTERVIEW: MAKOTO NAKAMURA, ERIKO MATSUDA
Makoto Nakamura, vice president of Asiamix Japan, supports % Arabica and Kenneth Shoji; Brand consultant Eriko Matsuda leads brand management
154TENANT
% Arabica kiosk locations show the brand¡¯s competitiveness
160UNDERDOGS
Coffee brands that started in cities with hardly any coffee culture and still gained an international following
163OUTRO
12 PERSONAL ARCHIVES
Hints of Christophe Lemaire and Sarah- Linh Tran¡¯s creativity found in their work spaces
20 IN MARAIS
The Lemaire headquarters blends into the Marais, a historic district in Paris
24 SMALL TALK
People at Lemaire affirm their personal beliefs about clothing and the brand¡¯s unwavering trajectory
32 INTERVIEW: CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE & SARAH-LINH TRAN
Co-creative directors of Lemaire
38 ON-SITE WORKSHOP
Lemaire¡¯s in-house atelier materializes the brand¡¯s design universe
42 LEMAIRE WARDROBE
Lemaire¡¯s iconic style imbues the brand¡¯s shirts, jackets, overcoats, and other essential items
48 UNDERSTATEMENT
Delicate design language expressed through colors, materials, silhouettes, and other details
58 OPINION: ANJA ARONOWSKY CRONBERG
Fashion journalist Anja Aronowsky Cronberg attests that Lemaire provides physical and mental comfort through its clothes
64 DEFINITE
The unique perspectives of Lemaire brand fans who refuse to compare themselves with others
88 AT THE BOUTIQUE
Lemaire boutiques reflect the brand¡¯s comfortable and calm mood
92 CRAFT PARTNERS
The brand expands its aesthetic domain through ingenious partnerships with artisans and artists
102 OPINION: SONYA DYAKOVA
Graphic designer Sonya Dyakova says that the allure of Lemaire is that it has created its own narrative by incorporating cultural elements in fashion
108 IN THE COLLECTIONS
Impressive Lemaire collections created in collaboration with outside creators
122 INDIVIDUALS
Strong personalities who have appeared on Lemaire runways
128 ESSAYS
Thoughts on the charms of Lemaire as everyday wear that is anything but mundane
131 AN OPTICAL POEM
Lemaire¡¯s color palette reflects light, shadow, and nature
140 BRAND STORY
How Lemaire grew while concentrating on creating styles rather than fashion
150 INSPIRATIONS
Music, films, books, and architecture that inspire the Lemaire designer duo
155 OUTRO